concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
Gotcha. I was about to congratulate you on how smoothly the car seemed to start and run on a standalone EMS lol.
Jay's MSP (aka Project Not-A-Subaru, aka Project Slotege, aka IDK...)
- Thread starter dmention7
- Start date
dmention7
Hater
Yar, it lives, but I still have a bit of tweaking to do to get it living strong and healthy it seems.
So far I have about 300 break-in miles on the motor, and I'm concerned about the oil pressure. I'm only hitting 25 psi at 3000 rpms (assuming my gauge is accurate) when hot, and at idle, it's hovering just above the zero mark. Before my rebuild, I was typically at 35 psi or so at the same engine speed. This is with 10W-30 full syn oil in both cases. Only real change I made to the oil system is going from a BB turbo with a restrictor on the oil feed to an unrestricted journal bearing turbo. Other than that, I used a brand new OEM mazda oil pump.
It would be simple enough to stick a restrictor on the turbo oil feed to gauge that effect. Any suggestions on a "safe" size restrictor that I could run long term, or would I need to get my oil pressure up quite a bit higher before I could restrict the feed without starving the turbo? Other than that, I'll probably swap out for 10W-40 oil.
As an aside, I just recently read of a company that does a modification service to the stock oil pump--ceramic coated internals for longevity and to tighten up the clearances, and replacing the internal pressure regulator with an adjustable external one. Wish I had heard about it sooner because I would've gone for that in a second. Now I'm stuck pulling the tranny and tearing apart a bunch of the bottom end if I want to upgrade the oil pump.
So far I have about 300 break-in miles on the motor, and I'm concerned about the oil pressure. I'm only hitting 25 psi at 3000 rpms (assuming my gauge is accurate) when hot, and at idle, it's hovering just above the zero mark. Before my rebuild, I was typically at 35 psi or so at the same engine speed. This is with 10W-30 full syn oil in both cases. Only real change I made to the oil system is going from a BB turbo with a restrictor on the oil feed to an unrestricted journal bearing turbo. Other than that, I used a brand new OEM mazda oil pump.
It would be simple enough to stick a restrictor on the turbo oil feed to gauge that effect. Any suggestions on a "safe" size restrictor that I could run long term, or would I need to get my oil pressure up quite a bit higher before I could restrict the feed without starving the turbo? Other than that, I'll probably swap out for 10W-40 oil.
As an aside, I just recently read of a company that does a modification service to the stock oil pump--ceramic coated internals for longevity and to tighten up the clearances, and replacing the internal pressure regulator with an adjustable external one. Wish I had heard about it sooner because I would've gone for that in a second. Now I'm stuck pulling the tranny and tearing apart a bunch of the bottom end if I want to upgrade the oil pump.
concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
What gauge are you running? That does sound low. Typically Mazda motors like to see ~40psi around 3000rpms.
Going to 40 weight is never a bad thing, though.
Going to 40 weight is never a bad thing, though.
dmention7
Hater
It's an autometer ultralite gauge http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4327
And yes 40psi @ 3000 rpms is where I would feel nice and comfy. It also occurred to me that I'm just using a cheap Fram oil filter for the break-in. I'm going to pick up an oversized Wix filter tonight, just in case I'm seeing a shitty filter cutting off some pressure.
And yes 40psi @ 3000 rpms is where I would feel nice and comfy. It also occurred to me that I'm just using a cheap Fram oil filter for the break-in. I'm going to pick up an oversized Wix filter tonight, just in case I'm seeing a shitty filter cutting off some pressure.
dmention7
Hater
Well, switching it up to 10W-40 bumped me up to 30-35psi @ 3000 rpms and a little bit extra at idle. But it still seems to top out there and not increase much with increased rpms. I don't think my bearing clearances were huge enough to really cause it to top out that low, so I think I'm going to blame it on the craptastic oil pump.
Oil pressure is good enough where I feel fine driving it normally, but I think I'm going to keep the boost to a reasonable level for the rest of the fall. Then this winter I can tear back in and replace the oil pump with a modified unit that should flow much better. The fun never ends!
Oil pressure is good enough where I feel fine driving it normally, but I think I'm going to keep the boost to a reasonable level for the rest of the fall. Then this winter I can tear back in and replace the oil pump with a modified unit that should flow much better. The fun never ends!
concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
Electric or mechanical gauge?
What you're describing is about right for oil that's truly up to temp. On hot days, the MX6 doesn't really see over 35psi @ 3000rpms, and it won't go higher than that with higher RPMs, either. Probably the relief system. It's just fine.
What you're describing is about right for oil that's truly up to temp. On hot days, the MX6 doesn't really see over 35psi @ 3000rpms, and it won't go higher than that with higher RPMs, either. Probably the relief system. It's just fine.
dmention7
Hater
Electric gauge.
If the relief valve on the oil pump is bleeding pressure at only 35psi, that's bad news bears. Mainly because it's a known problem that the PRV bleeds frothy oil back into the pump inlet and causes cavitation and further reduction in pressure. That'd be even more reason to go with a modified pump and external PRV.
Like I said, I'm not too worried about it in the short term, but I think it's going to need my attention sooner rather than later.
If the relief valve on the oil pump is bleeding pressure at only 35psi, that's bad news bears. Mainly because it's a known problem that the PRV bleeds frothy oil back into the pump inlet and causes cavitation and further reduction in pressure. That'd be even more reason to go with a modified pump and external PRV.
Like I said, I'm not too worried about it in the short term, but I think it's going to need my attention sooner rather than later.
concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
Sending unit could be off.
I drove the MX6 over the weekend once... now that it's not eleventy billion degrees i'm seeing about 45psi above 3krpms. Idles around 25psi. (This is high, due to my elevated idle around 1400rpms)
I drove the MX6 over the weekend once... now that it's not eleventy billion degrees i'm seeing about 45psi above 3krpms. Idles around 25psi. (This is high, due to my elevated idle around 1400rpms)
dmention7
Hater
Small update. Apparently she's only running lean between 3-4krpms, then dives back into the safe zone. These things are known to have all kinds of wonky AFRs as the ECU transitions from closed loop to open loop, but there must be something about my induction setup that really throws it off big time.
Either way, I need to hurry up and get that SplitSecond installed.
Either way, I need to hurry up and get that SplitSecond installed.
concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
So i was at Street Life Tour at Kil-Kare speedway in Ohio on Saturday.
Saw a blue 2001 MP3 with a built FS and a big turbo on it. With slicks. Looked fast. Except for that part that he couldn't get it out of the 14s. :trollface:
But anyways, how lean are we talking? Is that the area where it spools up? Or if you're even just cruising there, or revving there in neutral, is it still lean? MX6 will hit 15.5:1 during spool up in 5th gear on highway momentarily. If it's something like that, quick, then enriches again, it's not dangerous.
Saw a blue 2001 MP3 with a built FS and a big turbo on it. With slicks. Looked fast. Except for that part that he couldn't get it out of the 14s. :trollface:
But anyways, how lean are we talking? Is that the area where it spools up? Or if you're even just cruising there, or revving there in neutral, is it still lean? MX6 will hit 15.5:1 during spool up in 5th gear on highway momentarily. If it's something like that, quick, then enriches again, it's not dangerous.
dmention7
Hater
Damn, that's disappointing. And here I was planning to build a straight-line monster! :trollface:
Cruising, revving, idling are all between 14.5 and 15.5, which I'm not concerned about.
In boost, the general picture is that it will drop to about 12.5-13 as the turbo is spooling (this is typically around 3krpms, since I'm still avoiding lugging or revving like crazy), then once boost stabilizes, AFRs rise up to 14-15 again (bounce around quite a bit too) and there's some noticable hesitation (timing / knock retard maybe). As I get past 4krpms, things settle back down into the 12 range and she takes off again.
Cruising, revving, idling are all between 14.5 and 15.5, which I'm not concerned about.
In boost, the general picture is that it will drop to about 12.5-13 as the turbo is spooling (this is typically around 3krpms, since I'm still avoiding lugging or revving like crazy), then once boost stabilizes, AFRs rise up to 14-15 again (bounce around quite a bit too) and there's some noticable hesitation (timing / knock retard maybe). As I get past 4krpms, things settle back down into the 12 range and she takes off again.
concealer404
Skanky Escorts LLC
Yeah, you should do something about that. The hesitation is knock/detonation.
dmention7
Hater
I installed my fuel controller this morning. Had to deal with some kind of bullshit the previous owner had done with the O2 sensor and crank sensor wires (still trying to figure out what they were attempting and why). But, everything is wired up and ready to start trying to tune out that nasty lean spot.
dmention7
Hater
Well, I've been messing around for a bit now. I don't have a whole lot of chances to do any real pulls, but I have been able to get my boost under control and now my AFRs as I get into boost (and reach peak 5.5psi) are down in the 11.5-12.5 range. But after a couple seconds of steady WOT at constant boost, she still wants to lean out.
I don't have a good handle on any relationship with RPM, because I still haven't gone much past 4000 rpms at WOT, and I haven't hooked up my wideband to the fuel controller for logging, but I plan to do that this weekend. Maybe looking at some logs will clear things up.
I don't have a good handle on any relationship with RPM, because I still haven't gone much past 4000 rpms at WOT, and I haven't hooked up my wideband to the fuel controller for logging, but I plan to do that this weekend. Maybe looking at some logs will clear things up.