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Jay's MSP (aka Project Not-A-Subaru, aka Project Slotege, aka IDK...)

dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Got my first UOA report ever! Oil was changed at 100 miles after break-in, then again after 1700 miles. Sounds like nothing too out of the ordinary... some elevated levels of silicon, copper, and aluminum but that's to be expected after a rebuild with new internals. I'm a little weirded out by the fact that a 10W-40 oil was measuring closer to a 5W-30 after only 1700 miles though. But no fuel or coolant is reassuring. This fill was a 5W-40 full synthetic. I'm debating on having another analysis done at 3000 miles or skipping a change and doing it next time.
 

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DrWebster

Guest
Yaaaaaaay for Blackstone UOAs. I'me due for one on the Demio at its next oil change.

I'd get another one done at 6k or so, depending on what you plan to do for an OCI.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
That's kinda what I'm thinking... change again at 3k, at which point I can be pretty sure any residual ish has been flushed out. Then start benchmarking to see if I can safely go 4-5k on a change.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Headed out and logged a couple of pulls today. Too much traffic for anything but a couple squirts down on-ramps, but it should give you all an idea what I'm working with. It's pretty representative of what I'm seeing. Note that I'm dumping in extra fuel from 3000-4500 rpms where most MSPs are removing fuel.

Red=rpm Green=boost Purple=AFR

3rd, 4th gear. 3rd gear, I got on it about 2800rpm and let off at about 4200, right after AFRs shot up. The AFRs started climbing at 3500.


3rd gear, 2900 - 4900 rpms. That lean spot is 3600-4000 rpms.



Oh and Ben, I opened up the plug gap to .035", but there's no effect that I can tell.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Ho-kay. I think I have things sorted out in theory. I was under the impression that the car went into open loop under a combination of high load and rpm range. But after some more reading, it appears open loop is triggered at approximately 4k rpms, regardless of load or boost (fuck you very much, mazda).

So, the ECU is trying to hold N/A type AFRs up until 4k rpms, which you can see nice and clearly by the richening that happens during spool-up, followed by leaning out as the ECU plays catch-up. I think my solution is going to be something like this http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4536&parentid=0&stocknumber=07-46300

There's also this guy, also from SplitSecond http://splitsec.com/products/Enricher.htm which looks like it has a lot of functionality, but would probably be overkill since I only need to richen things out over a very small area.
 
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concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
Heh, if you had told me that's how your ECU ran before, shit, i could have told you that. That's why the MX6 does it as well to a point. :D (MX6 goes open loop at 75% or more throttle, but ECU reacts a little slow in transition)

But this is why piggybacks suck, man.

Are you spooling quicker than stock setup?
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Much quicker than stock. Short intake + extra short charge pipes + very small volume core means I'm pretty much spooling before I even hit the gas.

Oh and the premie baby turbo. lol
 
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concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
dmention7 said:
Much quicker than stock. Short intake + extra short charge pipes + very small volume core means I'm pretty much spooling before I even hit the gas.

Oh and the premie baby turbo. lol
Click to expand...

This is one of those situations where a bigger turbo actually fixes problems. :trollface:
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
I think you meant :hippo: LOL


Anyways, I just had another HERP DERP moment when I realized the SplitSecond actually has a built-in O2 clamp. It's just set up very strangely in the software, and I'm not 100% sure how to adjust it. But, with the clamp enabled at 0psi, I now run 10-10.2 AFRs all the way from 3000 up. Time to start pulling fuel and adding powah*!















*Yeah, yeah, shut up. :D
 
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concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
If you add enough bewst, you won't need to pull fuel.

That's how i tune the MX6. "Oh it's rich? Moar bewst. Still rich? Even moar bewst. STILL rich? Fuck you. ALL the bewst."
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Yeah. I'm pretty much salty at cars right now. I wish I didn't like the thing so much, or I'd part it out and move on.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Can't say I blame you. At least you know what to do to correct the problem, and it should go faster.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
Figured this thread was due for a bump. Long story short, it appears there were metal fragments left in the oil galley after machining, which coupled with loose bearing clearances and the weaksauce OEM oil pump were causing lowish oil pressure and consequently the noises I was hearing.

Teardown didn't reveal anything too horrible. Definite metal fragments in the oil pan and embedded in the main bearings, but no scoring of the crank journals. Crank was polished, block was thoroughly cleaned out, and on assembly, all clearances are checking out nicely. To beef up the oil system, I had Doc B racing (probably one of the few professional organizations with any experience making the FS-DE into a semi-reliable performance motor) modify an oil pump to use an external pressure regulator and ceramic coat the pump internals to tighten up all the clearances.

New pump with SwainTech coated internals


Spec sheet from Doc B - The pump actually started off in pretty good shape, but everything is tightened up dramatically.


Dinged up the front oil seal when seating it in the oil pump today, so as far as I got was pre-packing the oil pump with grease, tapping an oil return hole in the main bearing girdle, and cleaning everything up for installation.
 
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