Newb - questions on a drop/wheels

[SteveO]

FSD's/Konis in general are set to work with lowered springs as a whole, at least the better ones. You might not get as good a ride if you don't run the matched set, but say Eibach/koni should work fine, or Tein S-techs, or whatever else you decide on. As far as Koni blues vs. Eibachs? I dinno. Check the spring rates, that's the only way to know for sure.

As far as wheels, there's gonna be a whole slew of dissenters that mock Rotas as knockoffs, and well, they are. BUT- they're cheap, light, and the manufacturing has gotten a lot better. (I slammed my set pretty damn hard one day vs. a curb, and it worked out fine) Based on what I see you're into, you might be a candidate for the ever popular Rota Torque, or the Rota Slipstream. Wheeldude is about the only one in the US that carries them, and honestly, customer service there is top notch.

http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=335_336_387_345

That *should* be a list of 17" wheels.

Thanks. I know the Koni sports and the Pro's are a common and safe bet. I was thinking that the "adjustment" function of these wouldn't really apply to me so much. I'll just have to figure this part out.

Of the pics of Rota's I have seen, non of them did anything for me. I always see the same ones - the "Grid" type, just not me. I never went to their site as I kinda wrote them off, but now there are some I'm liking - the Scuderia, Quake, Bolognia. BUT there is no info on weight or where to buy them - WTF? I don't get why the wheel sites don't make the full spec info available. arghh.

Anyway thanks for the heads up on these, I'll dig some more.

 

[SteveO]

Well, I got the drop (Stellar) and wheels/tires put on Friday. Got the Ammdo's / V12's (stiiiiiiiiiiccccky tires)

Curious about mounting aftermarket - I went through Discount T and was watching them mount etc...I went and asked the tech while he was working that I thought there needed to be center rings installed to center the wheel before torq'ing etc..He said nope and that the nuts are tapered and will center the wheel (aftermarket= not hub-centric, I think that is what he said). They torq'd the wheel up in the air? Is this also correct? I thought I read somewhere to ALWAYS make sure center rings are used when mounting and that the studs DO NOT carry the load => exact opposite of the tech was stating.

I always thought they needed to be snugged up first (in the air), then drop the wheels to the ground a little bit, torq and the drop the car fully? Maybe this is only with stock wheels = hub-centric?

I didn't find much on a search, so sorry if this has been asked. Thanks.

 

[dmention7]

My understanding is that hub-centric rings are to center the wheel on the hub when mounting, but not for carrying the load. I could be incorrect on that (and it may vary by wheel style), but when I got my wheels, they just came with these ABS plastic rings, and I immediately questioned if that was sufficient. But I had several people reassure me that for that wheel design, the ring was for alignment, but not for carrying the load. If your wheels happened to not use rounded seat lug nuts, I suspect it would be a different story.

As for torqueing with the wheels in the air... unless they had someone standing on the brakes while they torqued the lug nuts, I would loosen and re-torque them yourselves. Sounds like they used an impact wrench, which means they are almost certainly over torqued.

 

[SteveO]

My understanding is that hub-centric rings are to center the wheel on the hub when mounting, but not for carrying the load. I could be incorrect on that (and it may vary by wheel style), but when I got my wheels, they just came with these ABS plastic rings, and I immediately questioned if that was sufficient. But I had several people reassure me that for that wheel design, the ring was for alignment, but not for carrying the load. If your wheels happened to not use rounded seat lug nuts, I suspect it would be a different story.

As for torqueing with the wheels in the air... unless they had someone standing on the brakes while they torqued the lug nuts, I would loosen and re-torque them yourselves. Sounds like they used an impact wrench, which means they are almost certainly over torqued.

I understand the rings don't carry the load, they are there just to center as you stated. I thought they come with every aftermarket wheel (because the bore is larger than stock), guess that's not the case. Said it was a special order or something, but again explicitly said my application does not need it. The car drives smoooth, soooo.

They didn't use an impact, they had a torque wrench and the brakes were applied (IIRC). He said to stop back in 80 miles to be re-torq'd.

 

[mndsm]

Or come find me and my torque wrench lol. Or any number of people here and their torque wrenches. But yeah, hub centric rings aren't an absolute. I don't have em on my car, and i'm running what amounts to a subaru wheel. In any event, well done good sir.

 

[YSOSLO]

I've bought aftermarket wheels with and without the hubcentric rings and both sets functioned without any issues.

Any pics of the new setup?

 

[dmention7]

To clarify, the tapered lugs WILL center the wheel properly--that's their function, and part of why the star-pattern is so important when torquing them. The rings are primarily so that when you're initially placing the wheels on the hub, everything is nice and lined up to start with.

 

[WhiteHot]

^^^I agree.

 

[SteveO]

I've bought aftermarket wheels with and without the hubcentric rings and both sets functioned without any issues.

Any pics of the new setup?

This is all I have for now. If the sun ever comes out, I'll snap some more

 

[YSOSLO]

Looks great! I guess I didn't realize this was for a 2010, so now I'm REALLY looking forward to more pics.