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Newb - questions on a drop/wheels

SteveO

SteveO

New Member
Would anyone like to comment on a shock/spring setup?

I saw AJ's thread, and share a few of the same goals = ride quality, gap, cost, set it forget it...

And although CO's (basic) don't appear to be a ton more $$ than a good shock/spring, Isn't it way overkill for a non-racing application?

I initially was thinking the Koni FSD/Prokit for the set it and forget it. I have read a lot of great reviews and a few that say no way when using anything other than stock springs...Geezzz. I "think" there are known issues with MS3's, read=>not made for Speeds but work great on GT's.
OR
The Koni sport/prokit - basically the same price as FSD, but the yellows have adjustments = is this the safest bet with springs?

Came across these - price is attractive, but know (using that term loosely) nothing about them?
http://www.streetunit.com/BC_Coilover_Kit_Mazda3_p/bc-n-03.htm

Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
I personally would consider coilovers to be overkill unless you plan to track the car regularly. A good matched damper/spring combo would probably be the best bet, given the concerns you listed, but an adjustable damper may be worth the extra cost if you can't get a matched combo.

Also, I'd avoid BC coilovers. If you're going to do coilovers, don't go cheap.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Before I decided just to buck up and go for broke (KW v3's.... soon) my choice was going to be Koni Yellows and Eibach Prokit springs. It's about as close to matched without going to full coils as you can get, and with the Konis, you do get adjustable damping (although adjusting the rears is a PITA, since the shock hat is NOT accessible w/o removing it from the car). I know a ton of people that have gone with that, and it seems pretty hard to beat.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
dmention7 said:
I personally would consider coilovers to be overkill unless you plan to track the car regularly. A good matched damper/spring combo would probably be the best bet, given the concerns you listed, but an adjustable damper may be worth the extra cost if you can't get a matched combo.

Also, I'd avoid BC coilovers. If you're going to do coilovers, don't go cheap.
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SteveO said:
Thanks, I know this stuff is all redundant to most here.
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SteveO

SteveO

New Member
mndsm said:
Before I decided just to buck up and go for broke (KW v3's.... soon) my choice was going to be Koni Yellows and Eibach Prokit springs. It's about as close to matched without going to full coils as you can get, and with the Konis, you do get adjustable damping (although adjusting the rears is a PITA, since the shock hat is NOT accessible w/o removing it from the car). I know a ton of people that have gone with that, and it seems pretty hard to beat.
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Cool thanks. I have read the same thing about the yellows and though it has adjustment its a pain, worth it though.

That's why I was considering the FSD's/prokit as I don't know if I would be ever really adjusting the yellow's and from what I can tell, the yellows "soft" setting is actually fairly firm and odds of ever going with the firm/aggressive setting seems unlikely. Again its hard w/o any experience to gauge it. I suppose I'd get the FSD's and then wish I got the yellows :)

Also, when people refer to 1.5" drop, does that simply mean a 1.5" drop that you can actually measure 1.5" down from where you fenders are currently or does it actually mean something like 1" due to a bunch of techno mumbo jumbo?
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
1.5"=1.5"... no technical mumbo jumbo here, unlike most car things :D

And as far as rehashing old info, it's what we're here for. If I don't reguritate my limited suspension knowledge from time to time, i'll forget it. Plus helping d00ds out is always a plus in my book.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
fitment?

OK, so one last question if I may before I pull the trigger on koni's.

Shock set up:
Koni yellow with eibach Pro = approx 1.5" drop all around
OR
Koni FSD/eibach Pro = approx 1.4" front / 1.2" rear

Wheels:
17x7.5 (either 7 or 7.5 wide depending on the wheel I choose), +45 offset

Tires:
225x45 17"

Any issues with rubbing and or when adding people or "stuff" in the back?

Any other thoughts or suggestion are certainly welcome!

Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
SteveO said:
OK, so one last question if I may before I pull the trigger on koni's.

Shock set up:
Koni yellow with eibach Pro = approx 1.5" drop all around
OR
Koni FSD/eibach Pro = approx 1.4" front / 1.2" rear

Wheels:
17x7.5 (either 7 or 7.5 wide depending on the wheel I choose), +45 offset

Tires:
225x45 17"

Any issues with rubbing and or when adding people or "stuff" in the back?

Any other thoughts or suggestion are certainly welcome!

Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
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Forgot to add, any thoughts on purchasing through THMotorsports, www.thmotorsports.com (for the Koni's) or any other suggestions on where to purchase through?
 
YSOSLO

YSOSLO

is the word, beotch
I'm clueless with regard to comparing one drop technique versus another, however I wanted to add some quick input with regard to the adjustments/alignment after the new suspension parts go on. Big tip...get some adjustable links before you install the parts. I bought a pair for my car before I put on my lowering springs (1.25" drop front & back on a regular Mz3). I went to get it aligned within a few days of the spring install, as was recommended to me by others on the forum and I was expecting to walk out the door with a pair of links to sell to someone that really needs them and I ended up needing to use them due to a fairly significant change in the suspension dynamics. I was glad to have the parts on hand or they likely would have been purchased through the garage at a much higher rate than what I paid.

For what it's worth, I've been driving on lowering springs with the factory shocks for 2yrs now with no problems. Many people will say you should replace the springs and shocks at the same time, but my experience has been that it's really NOT a necessity.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Purchase? Talk to our sponsor here MAPerformance, or clicky the link in my sig- I shopped them for Konis awhile ago, and without a sponsorship FROM Koni, I wasn't going to get any cheaper. As far as rubs are concerned- you oughtta clear the front no problem. Now I probably missed it, but depending on the rear, you may need a roll on the fenders, which is totally easy.... and I may or may not have purchased a fender roller for use by the forum members here for a nominal (probably free, depending on my mood) fee. Once that happens you should be good, just set the rears fairly stiff (which I would do anyhow, since the rear likes to roll over on itself anyhow, and try and spin ya) and with those and the stiffer/shorter Eibach pros, you should be golden. The stock suspension on these, even the ms3, is fairly mushy, so anything you do with it can only improve it.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
YSOSLO said:
I'm clueless with regard to comparing one drop technique versus another, however I wanted to add some quick input with regard to the adjustments/alignment after the new suspension parts go on. Big tip...get some adjustable links before you install the parts. I bought a pair for my car before I put on my lowering springs (1.25" drop front & back on a regular Mz3). I went to get it aligned within a few days of the spring install, as was recommended to me by others on the forum and I was expecting to walk out the door with a pair of links to sell to someone that really needs them and I ended up needing to use them due to a fairly significant change in the suspension dynamics. I was glad to have the parts on hand or they likely would have been purchased through the garage at a much higher rate than what I paid.

For what it's worth, I've been driving on lowering springs with the factory shocks for 2yrs now with no problems. Many people will say you should replace the springs and shocks at the same time, but my experience has been that it's really NOT a necessity.
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Thanks, good info to know. I have read similar "recommendations" on other boards as well. See, I should just stop the whole sha'bang right now.......Nope, gotta do it. I did think of sticking with stock shocks, but figured, just go all in. I hope it doesn't turn into a big pita.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Shocks gotta come off to get the springs out anyhow. it's one of thos "As long as i'm in here..." things.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
mndsm said:
Purchase? Talk to our sponsor here MAPerformance, or clicky the link in my sig- I shopped them for Konis awhile ago, and without a sponsorship FROM Koni, I wasn't going to get any cheaper. As far as rubs are concerned- you oughtta clear the front no problem. Now I probably missed it, but depending on the rear, you may need a roll on the fenders, which is totally easy.... and I may or may not have purchased a fender roller for use by the forum members here for a nominal (probably free, depending on my mood) fee. Once that happens you should be good, just set the rears fairly stiff (which I would do anyhow, since the rear likes to roll over on itself anyhow, and try and spin ya) and with those and the stiffer/shorter Eibach pros, you should be golden. The stock suspension on these, even the ms3, is fairly mushy, so anything you do with it can only improve it.
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Ya know, I guess I wasn't really considering MA Performance as I thought they were hi end stuff, more drastic mods et al...Anyways I''ll give them a buzz.

It "seems" going the FSD route is going to be the mildest with the yellows providing even more drop and thus as you pointed out, rolling the rears possibly. I guess until I get everything bolted on, I won't know if there will be issues. I still need to get the "ruler" out and try to get an idea how much things will change dimensionally given my wheel spec and new shocks (still need to decide on which ones).

I have always had a question regarding rolling fenders - aren't there residual effects to doing this in so far as damaging the paint (cracking, clear coat coming off etc..)? Obviously this would only pertain to performing this the "correct" way.

Thanks again for your input.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
No residual effects, if you do it right. Generally, you just take it slow, little by little bend it up, and at the end, use the finisher to clip it flat to the inside if you need to. Modern paint is REMARKABLY flexible, unlike that OG laquer shit (and even some newer laquers are pretty awesome... take a look at nail polish as an example) so as long as you heat it to put some flex in it, you've got no issue. I rolled the rears on my ms3 near flat a year ago, shortly after putting my stupid wheel combo on (stupid as in not dumb look, more what the hell was I thinking) and i've had no issues to date. We've done a LOT of cars over the years here, and other than one job we rushed because the owner was impatient and wanted flares NAO, there's been no bad paint IIRC. Even the one that got done with a bat and a garage heater (really, this happened) turned out decent. There's really no negative to rolling your fenders, and other than near EXACTLY the same size as OEM or narrower, you're gonna want to do it.

I have all the neccesary equipment to do so myself now (I got bored one day and decided myself, and by proxy MNMazda, needed a fender roller, so I got my Eastwood on) and I'm sure we can organize a day to get a bunch of cars done so you can see more of the process/get it taken care of.
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
mndsm said:
No residual effects, if you do it right. Generally, you just take it slow, little by little bend it up, and at the end, use the finisher to clip it flat to the inside if you need to. Modern paint is REMARKABLY flexible, unlike that OG laquer shit (and even some newer laquers are pretty awesome... take a look at nail polish as an example) so as long as you heat it to put some flex in it, you've got no issue. I rolled the rears on my ms3 near flat a year ago, shortly after putting my stupid wheel combo on (stupid as in not dumb look, more what the hell was I thinking) and i've had no issues to date. We've done a LOT of cars over the years here, and other than one job we rushed because the owner was impatient and wanted flares NAO, there's been no bad paint IIRC. Even the one that got done with a bat and a garage heater (really, this happened) turned out decent. There's really no negative to rolling your fenders, and other than near EXACTLY the same size as OEM or narrower, you're gonna want to do it.

I have all the neccesary equipment to do so myself now (I got bored one day and decided myself, and by proxy MNMazda, needed a fender roller, so I got my Eastwood on) and I'm sure we can organize a day to get a bunch of cars done so you can see more of the process/get it taken care of.
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Its been crazy busy at work....Seriously crazy.. Thanks for the info on this. Since I'm new to most of this mod'ing stuff, I have seen some pretty crazy threads on what people do. I mean it's almost like a cult or underground thing - well the serious people taking it to the 'enth degree just to get some friggin wheels or whatever, crazy.

Anyway, I guess I'm not against doing this, we'll see when I get everything. :)
 
SteveO

SteveO

New Member
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FWIW, the latest issue for me is that the FSD/Pro kit is not available and KONI will not be making a matched product as they did for 2009 and earlier models (straight from KONI). Its complicated, but I think for sanity sake I'll just move to a different product (I wanted this for its simplicity and mild drop)

Thus another question 0.o
1. The KONI sports come with their "own" springs => blue? OR you can purchase the ProKit. Is there any difference between these two setups (springs)?

2. Other options similar to the FSD/Pro combo (e.g. mild drop)?

3. I have looked at about a gazillion wheels (17" is the size I want w/ 225 rubber) and am finding it difficult to pull the trigger due to the one I find is not available, too big, too heavy etc... I'm liking the thicker spoke design of the RX8 style. I like the snowflakes on the speed's but their too heavy (for me) but like the design.

I came across these:
http://mrrwheels.com/wheels.html
and really like the - (my first choice) HR1 and HR2 Silver, and the HR5 and 8 are cool as well. Problem is there all too big

I'm also liking the Enkei EDR9

TSW Vortex

I know this is very subjective, just looking for any thoughts on similar designs (like the HR1's) from other manufactures that will fit a '10 MZ3 while keeping the weight at stock. Price - below $300/ea)
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
FSD's/Konis in general are set to work with lowered springs as a whole, at least the better ones. You might not get as good a ride if you don't run the matched set, but say Eibach/koni should work fine, or Tein S-techs, or whatever else you decide on. As far as Koni blues vs. Eibachs? I dinno. Check the spring rates, that's the only way to know for sure.

As far as wheels, there's gonna be a whole slew of dissenters that mock Rotas as knockoffs, and well, they are. BUT- they're cheap, light, and the manufacturing has gotten a lot better. (I slammed my set pretty damn hard one day vs. a curb, and it worked out fine) Based on what I see you're into, you might be a candidate for the ever popular Rota Torque, or the Rota Slipstream. Wheeldude is about the only one in the US that carries them, and honestly, customer service there is top notch.

http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=335_336_387_345

That *should* be a list of 17" wheels.
 
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