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Readmittance to the Game, 1991 MR2 Turbo

niterydr

Legendary Status!
Update:
Slow going, but found another reason why you should inspect vehicles 100% prior to buying them, (or just trailer them home and expect the worse like I did)

The vehicle was advertised in having "new" brakes. While the pads are new appearing, the job wasn't done correctly (big surprise). Found BOTH caliper slide bolts missing from the Driver's front caliper. Meaning on my sweet 5.8 mile test drive :66:, if I would have had to panic stop, there is a good chance that caliper would have ejected itself from the rotor and braking would have been a null and void idea. :rip:
Good thing I decided to install the stainless brake and clutch lines while I have it apart. My thoughts were that a 20 year old vehicle should probably have them changed with a brake/clutch fluid flush...I didn't expect to find nearly disconnected brakes.

Things accomplished that I will show pictures (since last update):

-Engine bay cleaned up, valve cover gasket replaced
-Spark plugs replaced, 1 stage colder, gapped to .030" and indexed
-Valve clearances checked, all within spec except on exhaust valve that is to tight, I am chalking that up to carbon and letting it buck
-Multiple vacuum lines replaced that were torn/brittle
-Extensive cleaning of intercooler system sans intercooler itself
-SS brake lines
-SS Clutch line
-Aluminum radiator installed
-Clutch fluid flushed
-Brake fluid flushed
-Coolant flushed
-Fuel filter changed

On Deck:
-install 2 new caliper slide bolts
-fill coolant with custom distilled water+water wetter+ 50/50 coolant mix
-oil change, 10w30 valvoline synthetic and purolator filter
-trans fluid change, custom blend of Shockproof liteweight and syncromesh
-Install Aerocatch hood pins
-clean air filter/air intake
-clean up last intercooler pipe and reinstall piping
-install and route catch can
-Get new tires installed
-Install camber bolts
-Alignment

On the plus side, minus the ugly body the mechanical aspects of the car are coming together and it should be roadworthy this week pending any other “interesting” finds.
 

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Wow, no caliper bolts? That's a pretty obvious thing when replacing brakes on a car. I've forgotten stuff before, but never anything that major... and especially considering there's literally two bolts to do pads on most toyotas.
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
Today's update:

I drove it to work.

Things left to do:

-rebleed brakes, spongy wouldn't begin to describe this mush. I will have to try it with the car running so the ABS pump works, I think I got air in there
-Install hood pins
-Figure out why that damn turbo timer isn't working. Think its a setting, just haven't looked at it.
-Install new wiper blades
-Detail this pink pig and see if I can get some of these dents pdr pulled
-get tires installed
-alignment
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
Got the wipers installed tonight (yes I am lazy). Tires and brake bleeding hopefully Saturday. Maybe Hood Pins if I am feeling saucy.
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
Well the next item on the list, after getting the brakes bled and tires on (last weekend) was to start "de-pinking" the car. The paint was heavily oxidized.

I've snapped some before and current shots. No wax on the car yet, and all work done by hand, my rotary buffer or DA polisher haven't been touched. Before I chewed up pads and heavy buffing compound, I decided to see what can be done with the following:
  1. Wash vehicle through Kwik Trip Car wash (best one without wax applied)
  2. Mother's California Gold Claybar using Mother's Quick Detailer as lubricant
  3. Meguiars Ultimate Compound, applied with 4.5" terry cloth hand pads
  4. Meguiars Deep Crystal System Polish, applied with 4.5" microfiber hand pads

Still to come:
-2 Stage Wax with DA polisher (really helps "set" the was in to the Polish)

The area's I've "worked" have been the roof, rear engine cover and side covers, trunk lid, spoiler, and the A and C pillars. They are done through the above 4 steps
Still need to do:
  • Front Fenders
  • Doors
  • Rear panels
  • Front Bumper
  • Rear Bumper
  • Carbon Fiber Hood (this will be a learning experience as the clear is kind of nasty, I may use Mequiars Crystal System Paint Cleaner as it isn't as abrasive as the Ultimate I've found)
  • Mirrors (missing a lot of clear, may just buy red ones off a crashed mr2 and call it good)
  • windows cleaned

Keep in mind, this is 20 year old, factory paint that has been through a lot of neglect. The hail damage coupled with the missing paint made me not worry about getting it perfect to the naked eye. This car is about making improvements from previous, not perfect. Over time things will be sorted out.

Total time invested so far:
-6 hours
Best time savings:
-Running it through touchless car was instead of spending 1+ hours washing/drying car

Before shots after putting engine back together:

(Notice the heavy heavy oxidation on the trunk lid, the roof and everything "up" is the same above photo left side, below photo right side)

Before shots outside:

During shots:
Left side -After claybar + Ultimate Compound. Right side-After Claybar only


Current condition (done minus wax):

(Yes my ceiling is sheetrocked and mudded/taped but not painted)


(If you look closely you will see reflections of: Weed wacker, plywood, shelf, few buckets full of fishing gear)

(Notice the ladder, garage door opener)

Not perfect, but at least what paint is left is shining again! :happydance:
 
Last edited:

Big Nate

Chaos Engineer
Nice work with the paint.

Are you on some kind of drugs.....Just break out the DA at least to help your arm not turn to junk.

It is kind like me using a scissors to cut my lawn, shit will get done and you can lean back and tell people you did it but shit looks way better and is done a lot faster with the right tools.
 

dmention7

Hater
Nate, I think you've owned too many big trucks and you've forgotten how quickly a small car like that can be fully detailed by hand.
 

Big Nate

Chaos Engineer
I totally understand that. But I see no reason why you would be proud to say you buffed your car by hand. No offense Swanny
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
The car is pretty much to small to use a rotary or a da properly. I would spend so much more time taping off trim and stopping to get into corners, just easier to do it by hand. Now my truck on the other hand, fire up the power tools, but this damn thing has so many nook and cranny's the only spots to hit it with power tools would be the trunklid, hood, roof, and upper door panels. Everything else requires a super thick foam pad with a very flexible back to hold the contours. Didn't want to spend the money to buy pads to support correcting paint that just needs to be repainted, rather just spend the $40 on materials and some elbow grease. This car went from a "20 footer" to a "10 footer" good enough for now. Maybe I"ll go back after it with a heavy cut later this year if I am bored.
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
Its just...to small. Wifey doesn't like it and wants me to move onto another vehicle.
I am looking at E36 M3's now or good condition 325i's. Car is on craiglist. I don't have to sell it, but this thing would suck for a commute up north to the uncle's cabin and my truck only gets 14-16 on the highway.

Car is mechanically solid once I complete the HFH and HFHOE work (tonight is the goal)
 
M

micahlarson

Guest
how much are you looking to sell it for?

never mind I found it
 

niterydr

Legendary Status!
I dropped the price to $5500 and would take a reasonable offer. Car is fun to drive and makes me feel like I am in a go-kart!
 
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