Jay's MSP (aka Project Not-A-Subaru, aka Project Slotege, aka IDK...)

Discussion in 'Project Cars' started by dmention7, Feb 1, 2011.

  1. mazdamn02

    mazdamn02 Guest

  2. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    First start-up was last night (no vid sorry). I was getting a bit worried because it took a fair amount of cranking (with spark plugs pulled and injectors disconnected) before I started seeing oil pressure, but there is a fair amount of extra volume in the system, so I guess that's to be expected. Once the injectors and plugs were back in, she fired right up almost instantly.

    The big thing I was watching for was oil pressure. Initially it was 80-85 psi at ~2000rpms, which seemed a bit on the high side. So I dialed back the pressure a bit and was getting 75 psi at idle, which settled to around 25 psi as the idle dropped to 800rpms and the oil warmed up a bit. Little throttle blips brought the pressure up to 40-50psi at 3k rpms.

    Still need to button a few things up and replace the bumper, but I'm hoping to go out for a test drive today. I forgot how fricking loud that thing is with the 88 durometer engine mounts. I think some softer solid mounts are going to be on my short list.
  3. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

  4. ohsixspeedsix

    ohsixspeedsix Owl Exterminator!!

    That's awesome man! Congrats. Its been a long time coming.
  5. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    You first!
  6. escort1991

    escort1991 New Member

  7. mazdamn02

    mazdamn02 Guest

    Video or it didn't happen!
  8. niterydr

    niterydr Legendary Status!

    Congrats on the start-up!
  9. ohsixspeedsix

    ohsixspeedsix Owl Exterminator!!

    Its not all good news lol.
  10. Cmezz331

    Cmezz331 Member

    Dibbs ridezies
  11. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Yeah, like Hayden said after I took it out for a drive and got everything completely warmed up, my oil pressure was still kind of sucky. Going to take a closer look at things this weekend. If it's low at idle, but fine at cruising rpms, I might just call it good for now. But once I put it away I'd probably put in a better oil pressure gauge and downsize the turbo oil line to make sure I'm not over-feeding it and losing pressure there.
  12. concealer404

    concealer404 Skanky Escorts LLC

    How bad is "sucky?" And what's your gauge again?

    Double check to see how accurate your gauge is by throwing a mechanical on it real quick.
  13. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Sucky = less than I was hoping for, but probably still fine. I'm still playing around with a few things and just dumped in a fill of PP 10W-30 last night to replace the cheap oil I used on the first startup, but I seem to have at or near the "standard" 10psi/krpm, but I haven't really gotten on it to see how that holds past about 3000rpms because I'm still working out a few other issues.

    This is the gauge I have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-4327/ but I'm looking to replace it with a full sweep gauge. A cheap mechanical gauge is a good idea... but not really keen on running an oil line into the cabin for a mechanical gauge. We'll see. Not like I'm going to be hooning on it much this fall anyways
  14. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    And for the record, I fully realize that I am being way more paranoid than is probably warranted. :D
  15. ohsixspeedsix

    ohsixspeedsix Owl Exterminator!!

    I'd say it's actually pretty warranted after the amount of time and effort that went into getting this thing going lol.
  16. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Planning to pull the intake mani this weekend and replace the rear MM with a cheap-o stock replacement filled with Windo-Weld for the time being. Ghetto I know, but the AWR race bushings just transmit too much NVH into the cabin for the car to be enjoyable as a daily driver. Will also take a look at the crossmember bushings per Ben's suggestion. While I've got it off, I'll also swap in a -3AN oil line for the turbo (replacing a -4AN) and run a small line to mount the oil pressure sender in a more accessible location for when/if I acquire a better gauge setup.
  17. concealer404

    concealer404 Skanky Escorts LLC

    Next time actually get the tube of poly stuff meant for bushings/mounts. :D It's not terribly expensive and isn't ghetto like window-weld.

    By hooking up a mechanical gauge, i meant one of those in-line dealies that you use for diagnosing, not full time. I wouldn't run oil inside if i had a choice, either. :)
  18. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Link, or product name?
  19. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater


    Saved for future reference. 1lb for $35

    To be fair though, Windo-Weld is just a 60D urethane compound... probably with some additives to improve adhesion to metal and glass. It sounds ghetto, but in principle it's probably no different than the 60D urethane you'd get anywhere else.
  20. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Took her out for shakedown drive # 2 today, and everything is still looking good. I'm still not seeing the oil pressure I was hoping to see, but I'm at least following the old 10psi/1000rpms rule up to 5500rpms on hot 10W-30, whereas before the new oil system I was pretty much topping out at 35-40psi on 5W-40.

    Reloaded my old stock injector map, and she ran much better in boost... just Mitt Romney rich. lol

    Finally, the windo-weld filled mounts may be ghetto in execution, but with all 4 mounts packed up, NVH is just a hum on the freeway and a light vibration at idle, as opposed to a combination hip hop concert/earthquake with the mounts I originally had in there.

    Anyway, it looks like I finally have a solidly-running car again. Just need to start tackling the laundry list of cleanup and finishing items under the hood!

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