Jay's MSP (aka Project Not-A-Subaru, aka Project Slotege, aka IDK...)

Discussion in 'Project Cars' started by dmention7, Feb 1, 2011.

  1. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Well, since this project doesn't involve a rotary or a DISI, this thread is probably mostly going to be me talking to myself, hehe... But hell, I'm bored right now.

    I'll save this first post for current status and such. See the next post for the backstory.

    Build Status:
    -Disassembly started 3/21/11 - Pics in post #25
    -Engine Pulled 4/2/11 - Pics in posts 32 & 35
    -Teardown started 4/3/11


    Current mods:
    "customish" hackjob intake
    custom less-hackjob air-water intercooler
    Boostsciences RDV
    GHL 3" downpipe and secondary cat delete
    Thermal R&D catback
    Fidanza 7lb flywheel
    Exedy stage 1 clutch

    Appearance:
    Seibon carbon fiber hood
    Faux-STI-wing-delete mod
    Rota Torque 17x7.5+48
    Smoked tail lights and sidemarkers
    Tint 35% front / 20% rear

    Interior/Misc
    Autometer boost gauge
    Autometer oil pressure gauge
    Autometer A/F gauge (aka useless raver light show)


    Awaiting install:
    K1 forged rods
    Wiseco forged pistons (.020" over)
    SplitSecond FTC-1 fuel/timing controller
    AEM Tru-Boost boost gauge/controller
    AEM UEGO wideband
    Mishimoto radiator (full width) + slim fans
    Devil's Own stage 2 meth/water kit
    modified intake manifold (gutted, with VICS and VTCS removal)
    A/C removal
    nk2a bumper sag fix


    Shopping list:
    505zoom cold air box
    Thunder v3 turbo manifold
    Tokico HPK springs/dampers
    .020" overbore
    Mild head work (PnP + valve job)
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2011
  2. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    (will fill in with some pics later)

    There's not really a whole lot to tell in backstory, since I'm just getting to the good stuff now. But when I bought the car in 2007 it was basically bone stock except for a CAI and a really bad muffler shop catback that leaked in 2 places.

    Since then I picked up a 3" TBE (GHL downpipe, mated to a Thermal R&D catback) off a local member who was parting out, which was a welcome replacement for the garbage it replaced. Next mod was a custom water-air intercooler I pieced together to replace the stock SMIC. I already did a pretty extensive writeup on that project, which you can read here and with some more detail here. As part of the intercooler install, I had to relocate the battery to the trunk, with a writeup waaaaaayyyyy over here. With those mods in place, and raising the boost slightly to 8psi, I dynoed at 200whp on the nose at MAP's dyno. Up until now, not a whole lot has changed on that front, except for a Fidanza 7lb flywheel and Exedy Stage 1 clutch.

    Most of the visual mods on this car have been the result of one unfortunate situation or another. It got hammered in a hailstorm a couple years back... I mean really hammered. Almost every body panel was either replaced, repainted, or otherwise repaired. I took that opportunity to replace the hood with a carbon fiber hood from Seibon, and remove the giant wing (step 1 in de-subaruifacation). The previous winter, I somehow left my garage door open when I left for work, and someone helped themselves to my OEM Racing Hart wheels, causing me many a sad. But homeowners insurance came through for me, and I ended up buying a set of Rota Torques (17x7.5+48, wrapped in 225/45-17 Kumho Ecsta SPT tires) that spring.

    Down to the little details, I originally had it tinted to 20% all around, but for some reason that was attracting a lot of attention (i.e. tickets), so I lowered the front windows to 35% last spring. The tails and sidemarkers are also smoked.

    Right now, I'm working on putting together the parts I need for a full rebuild with forged internals. Come spring I plan to be forged, tuned, and shooting for 240-250ish whp.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2011
  3. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

    You have any plans for the trans outside of the clutch? I know Tom (I forget what his username was) was fragging transmissions pretty regularly and he was putting down ~300whp.
     
  4. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Nope. There is no reasonably-priced upgrade for this transmission, and 300hp is about the limit stock. Any worthwhile upgrade would require a complete rebuild and cost more than I will have into the rest of the car. It's not the gears themselves that are the problem; it's the case itself flexing at high torque, causing reduced contact between gears, which leads to breaking teeth. Only thing I'd upgrade is the diff since that can be done for about $600-700, and then only if I end up breaking the stocker.

    I don't plan on tracking or otherwise abusing the car, so I'm not terribly concerned about breaking things. Even if I blow the stock turbo and upgrade to a disco potato, the mods I'd be willing to put in would probably have me topping out at 275-280whp. People have certainly gone higher than that on the stock trans, but it's usually with a bigger turbo and slower spool.
     
  5. JohnnyT

    JohnnyT New Member

    How do you tune them buggers anyway? Something I know nothing about...

    You're doing forged internals and stock turbo - did I read that right? I suppose if the stock turbo gets you to 250 then why not use it. On paper, that car sounds like it'll be a friggin' blast when all's said and done. What's your timeline by the way?
     
  6. Picklz

    Picklz SUDO Make me a SAMCH

    I believe the rebuild needs to happen anyway (not just for the sake of putting Forged internals in). So if it's getting torn down might as well spend a few extra bucks and do it right!
     
  7. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Yep, forged internals and stock turbo for now. Mainly because the stock internals are barely adequate for the car in bone stock form. I've got almost 120k on the clock right now, so like Matt said, it's probably time for a refresh anyways. Getting the block bored .020" over to hopefully get compression and tolerances all back to original specs. The stock crank is forged already, so given that I haven't spun a bearing or anything, I doubt I'll be doing any additional machining besides maybe a light valve job and PnP.

    Far and away the most popular way to tune these cars through the mid-200whp range is a SplitSecond piggyback. I have a model with timing control that allows for ignition timing retard, though anecdotally I've heard it's not terribly useful on this car.

    I've got most of the parts necessary for a rebuild ordered, and I'm hoping to start tearing down sometime in the next couple weeks, if we get a warm weekend or two. Being on the road (with current planned mods) by April is my goal.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2011
  8. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

    You have a machine shop picked? Just gonna do it at MAP? Considered knife edging the crank as long as it's out of the car?
     
  9. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    MAP quoted me a pretty reasonable price for the machine work on the block, plus they are pretty close to me, so I'll probably do it there. From what I've read on knife-edging, I'm not totally convinced it would be worth the money.
     
  10. JohnnyT

    JohnnyT New Member

    I wasn't trying to downplay your plans at all. I just wanted to confirm I read it correctly. I don't see anything wrong with a stock turbo on forged internals (especially on a budget) - zero lag and quick response with power throughout the RPM range to boot. As long as that snail doesn't get worked too hard but it sounds like it'll be fine with your goals. So...dyno day in June? Let's do this.
     
  11. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Oh, I took no offense or anything. On most cars, forged internals are pretty optional until you upgrade the turbo so it was a pretty reasonable question, haha
     
  12. niterydr

    niterydr Legendary Status!

    I like MSP's. Knife edging the crank isn't needed on a street car, you will see much higher gains with headwork. While the knife edged crank will cut down rotating mass, unless you are spinning uber high rpm, a light weight flywheel will get you similar weight loss, at a lower price.
    Typically headwork is a better place to spend money if on a budget.

    Good luck!
     
  13. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    So I figure since the block is going to be machined and cleaned up, I may as well paint things a nice color. Any ideas? Otherwise I'll probably just go with a clean black.
     
  14. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

    You like the orange. I hate to say it, but chevy orange on the block with a gloss black valve cover, and perhaps some blue accents could look pretty killer.
     
  15. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    You know... I wasn't going to say orange, so damn you for encouraging my ricer tendencies.
     
  16. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

    I think the orange could work, at least for the block. I'd not do the valve cover orange, but the bottom would be cool.
     
  17. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    So... orange for the block, black for the head, valve cover, intake mani, etc... and then some blue accents. I can dig it.
     
  18. mndsm

    mndsm I'M OFFENDED!

    You know, if you wanted to throw some unexpected flavr at some fools when you popped the hood, you should put orange and white pinstripes on the valve cover, or see if you can get a custom COP cover and stripe that. Nothing srs exotic, just a lil something.
     
  19. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    Stripes would be really hard on the MSP valve cover. But something along those lines might work.
     
  20. micahlarson

    micahlarson Guest

    Jay this thread really makes me miss my msp..
     

Share This Page